Vintage Art

Exclusive Fragrances from Guerlain: Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere

Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matiere introduced a trio of fragrances in 2005 featuring three perfumers who were invited to design their own fragrances for Guerlain. These perfumes were created to coincide with the opening of the newly renovated Guerlain flagship store in Champs Elysees. According to the fragrance house, “This act of true creation is a hymn to precious and rare raw materials, and differs by its originality.”

Angelique Noire was created by Daniela Andrier. The fragrance notes are composed of angelica seeds, pink berries, pear, jasmine, sambac, caraway, vanilla, angelica roots and cedar. This starts off as slightly bittersweet accompanied by faint green undertones, perhaps arising from the angelica accords. The scent develops into something sweet; trails of fruits and vanilla linger while the green notes are vaguely present. Angelique Noire is consistent with maintaining subtlety in the dry down. This fragrance is well-executed.

Rose Barbare, as the name implies, centers on one of Guerlain’s favorite ingredients, the rose. The nose behind this fragrance is Francis Kurkdjian. This perfume is described as “an opposition to stereotypes, in a way that would be unexpected, untamable and contemporary… vibrant, floral heady”; hence, the name Rose Barbare which literally translates to Bar barian Rose. The notes are aldehydes, rose essence, rose absolu, fenygreek, peach honey, patchouli and notes of undergrowth. The fragrance description doesn’t really sit well with the impressive olfactory statement at first whiff. The rose accords are pronounced but it does not qualify as heady or obtrusive; rather, the rose component is airy, soft and dusky. This fragrance has no excesses. If you shun rose-based fragrances in the past, you will be surprised how Guerlain creatively meld roses with the other accords to produce a versatile fragrance.

Cuir Beluga was created by perfumer Olivier Polge and the focus of this fragrance is leather, another Guerlain favorite raw material. With this fragrance, Guerlain wants to evoke luxury and femininity without the animalistic notes of leather. Cuir Beluga has a unique vintage character; amber, vanilla and aldehydes are the most pronounced notes. The leather factor is quite soft and the base is somehow reminiscent of Shalimar’s.

Guerlain also launched new fragrances in the L’art et la Matiere collection. The more recent additions to the series are: Cruel Gardenia, Iris Ganache, Bois d’Armenie.

Learn more about Guerlain’s exclusive fragrances at discount perfume online store, scentiments.com.

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